Having had some part of Sarajevo uncovered, and the BBI shopping complex explored, we resorted to rest at the concourse in front of the complex, not knowing anything else to do. Fortunately we didn't have to wait long, after a few minutes Sanadin appeared from the direction opposite to which we came from. He hugged us, giving a warm welcome to his two guests of the same faith.
I learnt that my facebook profiling skills was not so bad- Sanadin is a walking proof. Although his english is not very fluent, he has in his heart the warmth ever-ready to be extended to his guests. He is a man of extraordinary valour- indeed we were not the first tourists he has attended to. He mentioned his regular experience working as a group tourist guide in Mostar, from which he aims to improve his english and spread the beauty of Islam. Only recently, he brought some non-muslim tourists to sleep in his house, another of his not uncommonly done deeds. At his age, only a year younger than me, I would think that many other youths would prefer to busy themselves doing something else. Something most probably less productive than this.
Our unofficial guide had plans. He wanted to walk us through the very heart of Sarajevo tonight, in the difficult-to-pronounce Baščaršija, a Turkish derived word. In fact, I would later come to know that in Bosnian language (and culture; with limitations), elements of Turkish are quite widespread. Sanadin explained that in Turkish, Baščaršija simply means 'main marketplace'. I had to have him repeat this word a number of times that I was afraid I might offend him; his language and culture at the same time. It couldn't be helped, I needed it to be transcribed somewhere, I need to see its written form before I could appreciate it better. It was not until I came back to England that I actually learnt this word without the same difficulty.
Language is simply a marvel to me. It is something everyone- without exception, not even the deaf or dumb- uses everyday, but many would ignore its exquisite intricacies. If only languages were like stamps or coins, I would have collected every variant of it that ever existed between east and west. Much of the words of any one language are intermingled with at least three other completely different or even ancient languages (I'll leave history, there will be no end to its facts, interrelation, mystery, and excitement). Some languages have words distinct from each other, but their verb conjugation structure might be somewhat alike. Compare any two languages in the world, little do I doubt the possibility to find some similarities in the most starkly different languages. In that way, if you have mastered a language, and I suspect everyone has had at least one, you will never have to learn another language from scratch. Rather ironically, there must be something that you have known about the yet-to-be-known language.
Another thing about language, perhaps obvious but the most noteworthy; it connects people.
Friday 30 October 2009
Tuesday 20 October 2009
How history still plays a role
From one end of the world to the other, no sane man can escape needing the toilets as part of their daily routine. Our roles can shift from a guest to a host, a buyer to a seller, a believer to a non-believer, a traveler to a local dweller- but the basic needs stay and do not change. Our preferences and circumstances do though; they can vary greatly, making us think that we are in need of certain facilities more- or less- than other people around us.
More notably for travelers, toileting is far above 'facility'- it is an absolute neccessity. In every stop and destination, and in the time between them, our minds would now and again be stormed with at least a touch of worry on the type of toileting in store for us in the next halt. Timing is a major issue, because we travelers are bound not only to our journey but also the toilets' operational hours. To some people with a greater degree of fussiness, this can be a thoroughgoing preoccupation.
Fortunately for the two lost Malaysians in a regular night of Sarajevo, the toilets in BBI shopping complex were luxurious. We were very satisfied with the facility, a service which we dont have to pay a penny for. Up until then I have failed to observe a very starked reality, depicting marked difference between two countries which shared a common political and social identity. The difference is probably theological in origin; one party viewing water as a basic individual right and charitable means, the other sees it as a door to economical gain. To put it simply, as far as our legs have taken us, every working toilet in Croatia- from the unattended to the lavish- demands payment from its users. In contrast, not a single toilet (and for that matter any other water facilities) in Bosna is not free. We walked across Mostar and in the middle of Sarajevo, and have used toilets in reputable hotel and shopping complex without having to worry about keeping a spare change to be given away at the counters. Nothing less to expect from a country in which Islam can be found in the roots of its traditions.
At this point it is almost an obligation for me to include the observations from Al-Djazairi, my all time favourite author on medieval history of the Orient vis-à-vis the Levant, who maintained that such phenomenon is not new, and has existed for almost a century now, if not more. While Islam regards water as clean and purifying, its opponents see it as unclean, loathsome, and dishonorable. While Muslims are proud to 'bathe' certain parts of their bodies five times a day, their adversaries would avoid water as much as they can, until that we can find in their history a laughable quote from a royal queen who was proud to have not touched even a single drop of water for as long as she had lived. Just to be sure- she was, at that time, in her age of frailty.
Now it shouldn't be a wonder to us that Bosna treats "the need of water" with high regard, ensuring that everyone is given his right to such basics. It is a religious duty, in which God's extensive mercy is earned.
More notably for travelers, toileting is far above 'facility'- it is an absolute neccessity. In every stop and destination, and in the time between them, our minds would now and again be stormed with at least a touch of worry on the type of toileting in store for us in the next halt. Timing is a major issue, because we travelers are bound not only to our journey but also the toilets' operational hours. To some people with a greater degree of fussiness, this can be a thoroughgoing preoccupation.
Fortunately for the two lost Malaysians in a regular night of Sarajevo, the toilets in BBI shopping complex were luxurious. We were very satisfied with the facility, a service which we dont have to pay a penny for. Up until then I have failed to observe a very starked reality, depicting marked difference between two countries which shared a common political and social identity. The difference is probably theological in origin; one party viewing water as a basic individual right and charitable means, the other sees it as a door to economical gain. To put it simply, as far as our legs have taken us, every working toilet in Croatia- from the unattended to the lavish- demands payment from its users. In contrast, not a single toilet (and for that matter any other water facilities) in Bosna is not free. We walked across Mostar and in the middle of Sarajevo, and have used toilets in reputable hotel and shopping complex without having to worry about keeping a spare change to be given away at the counters. Nothing less to expect from a country in which Islam can be found in the roots of its traditions.
At this point it is almost an obligation for me to include the observations from Al-Djazairi, my all time favourite author on medieval history of the Orient vis-à-vis the Levant, who maintained that such phenomenon is not new, and has existed for almost a century now, if not more. While Islam regards water as clean and purifying, its opponents see it as unclean, loathsome, and dishonorable. While Muslims are proud to 'bathe' certain parts of their bodies five times a day, their adversaries would avoid water as much as they can, until that we can find in their history a laughable quote from a royal queen who was proud to have not touched even a single drop of water for as long as she had lived. Just to be sure- she was, at that time, in her age of frailty.
Now it shouldn't be a wonder to us that Bosna treats "the need of water" with high regard, ensuring that everyone is given his right to such basics. It is a religious duty, in which God's extensive mercy is earned.
Saturday 10 October 2009
Observer bias
Our estimation of the distance we covered can often be inaccurate; especially when our limbs have weakened, stomach rumbling, and the hopes and excitements for finding the 'legendary' Katedrala was slowly diminishing. At such a time, after (what we felt like) a long hour of walking, we stopped at, and were stopped by, a big shopping complex under the name Bosna Bank International (BBI). Being in the middle of the city's concentration, it easily stood out from the rest of its neighbours and surroundings. A concourse is spread and extended almost unrestrictedly before its entrance, inviting a massive crowd of shoppers to gather, break, and enjoy the fresh air before or after their needs are fulfilled.
We, the lost travelers, were among its benefitors. We might have refreshed our spiritual states at Alipašina džamija- which was something we appreciated and needed very much- but as Muslims we remain practical. Prayers won't change our dear future without effort, it won't bring about a map of Sarajevo in a piece of paper to us, it won't cause the sky to rain golds and diamonds, neither will it build a roof on top of us for shelter. At that time we needed to relieve ourselves, to answer the call of nature in an appropriate setting, if not luxurious. We needed some digression, and BBI shopping complex was the right place for that purpose.
Inside the building, there were throngs of people walking in an almost random, unregulated manner. As in other shopping complexes the noise was maximal, everyone was speaking at the top of his voice. I was looking, glancing and turning my head round to look for Bosnian women in hijab, but unfortunately it was a rarity. There were only two or three of them that I managed to get a glimpse on, and that was for the whole hour or so I spent in the complex. Often I was told and reminded over and over again by proud Bosnians in Mostar that in this city, Muslims account for more than 90% (many even said 99%) of the population. "So where is Islam? Is this as much as it can give me?" I tried to reason this, doing brain-storming to find for reasons or at least excuses.
In reality, it was almost Isha' time- about 9 o' clock in the night- and it was not fair for me to expect to see many Muslim women in hijab around this time, especially in such places. My family and I ourselves would only very very occassionally do so, when there is real need. Otherwise, we prefer to spend our time at home together as a happy family; reading hadith, discussing Qur'an, watching the news or family movies over dinner. We see it as a time of rest, after a long day of school and work. It is a time of togetherness, of love and understanding, and of smiles and laughters- a time I appreciate most in the many times I spent at home. It is a time of pure happiness for the whole family, a time much needed by every one of us without exception. Thank you Babah and Umi, for I wouldn't have grown up to be this same Safwan if we hadn't spent much time of this like.
Now I understood better on how biased can obersvations be, even if the observer tries very hard to be honest, critical and contemplative. I came here as a tourist, but that wasn't the whole picture. I couldn't help but bring with me the expectations I have on Bosna- in the way I hoped to see it as. In fact, these were very skewed, gathered only by limited exposure to this country's unlimited reserve of culture. It will be worse if I was not willing to learn from my own weaknesses, and continue to think that I'm making an infallible, unbiased judgement of a culture I hardly even know.
We, the lost travelers, were among its benefitors. We might have refreshed our spiritual states at Alipašina džamija- which was something we appreciated and needed very much- but as Muslims we remain practical. Prayers won't change our dear future without effort, it won't bring about a map of Sarajevo in a piece of paper to us, it won't cause the sky to rain golds and diamonds, neither will it build a roof on top of us for shelter. At that time we needed to relieve ourselves, to answer the call of nature in an appropriate setting, if not luxurious. We needed some digression, and BBI shopping complex was the right place for that purpose.
Inside the building, there were throngs of people walking in an almost random, unregulated manner. As in other shopping complexes the noise was maximal, everyone was speaking at the top of his voice. I was looking, glancing and turning my head round to look for Bosnian women in hijab, but unfortunately it was a rarity. There were only two or three of them that I managed to get a glimpse on, and that was for the whole hour or so I spent in the complex. Often I was told and reminded over and over again by proud Bosnians in Mostar that in this city, Muslims account for more than 90% (many even said 99%) of the population. "So where is Islam? Is this as much as it can give me?" I tried to reason this, doing brain-storming to find for reasons or at least excuses.
In reality, it was almost Isha' time- about 9 o' clock in the night- and it was not fair for me to expect to see many Muslim women in hijab around this time, especially in such places. My family and I ourselves would only very very occassionally do so, when there is real need. Otherwise, we prefer to spend our time at home together as a happy family; reading hadith, discussing Qur'an, watching the news or family movies over dinner. We see it as a time of rest, after a long day of school and work. It is a time of togetherness, of love and understanding, and of smiles and laughters- a time I appreciate most in the many times I spent at home. It is a time of pure happiness for the whole family, a time much needed by every one of us without exception. Thank you Babah and Umi, for I wouldn't have grown up to be this same Safwan if we hadn't spent much time of this like.
Now I understood better on how biased can obersvations be, even if the observer tries very hard to be honest, critical and contemplative. I came here as a tourist, but that wasn't the whole picture. I couldn't help but bring with me the expectations I have on Bosna- in the way I hoped to see it as. In fact, these were very skewed, gathered only by limited exposure to this country's unlimited reserve of culture. It will be worse if I was not willing to learn from my own weaknesses, and continue to think that I'm making an infallible, unbiased judgement of a culture I hardly even know.
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