No, you are a traveler!

"No, you are a traveler!" was what Harun repeatedly said when I tried- and insisted- on paying the bills. It was unexpected, indeed it got me perplexed, that I was receiving such hospitality from a near-complete stranger. 10 minutes ago, I wouldn't have recognised him if we were to bump in each other in the streets, and now he is treating us like his closest friends. Nubli and I really didn't mind spending a little bit, for so far we haven't spent much except on bus tickets. Moreover, I have came to this country coupled with a sincere intention to help its economy in any way I could afford (that's what toursists normally do, knowingly or unknowingly). I later succumbed, but not without a safety net- "next time I come, I won't drink unless you let me pay", sounded my friendly warning to him. We smiled and exchanged hugs- deep inside me I really wished to see him again. Do bear in mind that this man was running a business, and his business then was nothing more than three days old!

It turned out that this one example of Bosnian hospitality and generous reception is in no way exceptional. I traced my thoughts back to Mostar earlier today, when Nurudin won't allow us to even take our wallets out, him instead paying the confectionaries we were feasting on. In fact, Nurudin's tour-guide service, which lasted over two hours and covering some couple of miles, was completely free of charge. I was fully aware that being treated is a great thing, but I certainly didn't want to be taking advantage of these peoples' incessant acts of kindness. As inherent Malays especially, we are accustomed to avoid being a bother to anyone, lest we might add to their burden. For a long time I had this attitude, which I thought was faultless and venerable, until the day when a Muslim-revert brother Lim Jui Soon challenged me in his words, "Do you want to open me an opportunity to do good, or don't you?"

Interestingly, a little insight into Islam would instantly disclose the origins from where this culture was nurtured. It is possible that this makes a perfect example of how the Quran lives within the society, glowing in peoples' hearts, spreading the light and serenity to their surroundings- benefiting a foreign traveler like me, oblivion- to say the least- at that time. A culture which its engines are fuelled by the meaningful, impeccable verses of God's final testament, stands out in the midst of hedonism not like a sore thumb, but like a red rose against a monochrome background. These Bosnians could have instead shed our skins, empty our pockets and fill their tummy, but they chose to starve and facilitate us. Their reason was, as I recall their own words, "the Prophet was very kind to travelers- so will we..."

"It is not piety or righteousness that you turn your faces towards east and west (in prayers); but it is the one who believes in God, the Last Day, the Angels, the Book, the Prophets and gives his wealth- in spite of love for it- to the kinsfolk, to the orphans, and to the poor, and to the traveler, and to those who ask, and to set slaves free, (and the pious person is the one who) performs prayers, and gives the in charity, and who fulfil their oath when they make it, and who are patient in extreme poverty and ailment and at the time of fighting. Such are the people of the truth and they are the pious."
(al-Baqarah ; 177)

Back in Sarajevo, I jokingly thought, "Poor Sanadin, he had to pay for his cup of coffee, while we walked out without losing a penny."